Care of Box Turtles
Box turtles (genus Terrapene) are relatively small, land-dwelling reptiles with a unique, hinged shell design enabling them to completely withdraw their head and limbs and totally close their shell (like a closed box). This design affords total protection to their soft tissues when threatened by predators.
Box turtles are very popular as pets in the United States.
Most of the box turtles kept as pets are collected in the United
States, but 4 species are also found in Mexico. The Eastern or
Common Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina carolina) and the Three-Toed
Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina triunguis) seem to be the hardiest
in captive situations.
Natural History
The range of the box turtle varies from the open woodlands of
the Eastern Box Turtle, the swampy environment of the Florida
species (Terrapene carolina bauri), the marshy habitat of the
Gulf Coast Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina major), to the harsh
desert environment of the Desert Box Turtle (Terrapene ornata
luteola). Box turtles are terrestrial but occasionally enter water
for soaking and/or drinking. They are generally regarded as poor
swimmers.
Box turtles appear to be long-lived. One Three-Toed Box Turtle apparently lived 130 years at an Eastern zoo. Another was found in 1931 with a nearly worn-away date of 1809 carved into its shell!
Box turtles are omnivorous. They enjoy both live, whole animal food (earthworms, slugs, snails and other invertebrates), as well as fruits and berries.
Mating season occurs after the turtles emerge from hibernation. Courtship may be prolonged, involving the male's biting of the shell and limbs of the female. During copulation, the male is locked onto the rear margin of the female's shell by his hind feet and leans over backwards. During mating season, the male may exhibit increased activity and "penis fanning." The penis resembles a purple flower that may be mistaken for a prolapse by those unfamiliar with the turtle's normal anatomy.
Egg-laying usually occurs in June and July, in the late afternoon or early evening. Between 2 and 7 (usually 4 or 5) eggs are laid, measuring 3/4 of an inch by 1 1/4 inch. Females can retain semen for long periods after copulation. One such documented case involved a captive box turtle laying 5 fertile eggs 4 years after any possible contact with a male.
Housing
The most suitable environment to satisfy the roaming habits of
box turtles is a large, fenced enclosure or yard. Box turtles
are escape artists and good climbers, so fences should be intact
and secure. Use of chicken wire to reinforce fences in poor repair
is recommended. The habitat should contain low bushes to provide
protection and privacy for the turtles. Shade and a shallow source
of water are essential. Some fanciers advocate use of dry leaves
to enable the box turtles to burrow.
Indoor enclosures are not nearly as desirable unless they can be spaciously constructed. A mature box turtle should not be housed in a small terrarium as is common practice. Terrariums can be used as temporary housing at night for box turtles allowed outside in the daytime. An indoor enclosure can be constructed with high wooden sides, indoor-outdoor carpeting on its floor for ease in cleaning, and a large terra cotta or ceramic saucer to hold drinking water. A focal heat source (hot rock, lamp, heater) that allows the turtle to voluntarily warm itself should be provided in an indoor habitat. Visual security is an often overlooked aspect of captive reptile husbandry. Many box turtles will not feed in the presence of people and require a hiding area for this purpose and for additional security.
Artificial sunlight is a necessity if a box turtle is housed for long periods indoors. The Vita-Lite (Duro-Lite Lamps, Duro-Test Corp, Lyndhurst, NJ 07071) is an acceptable substitute for incidental sunlight. It provides the ultraviolet spectrum needed by vertebrates for vitamin D metabolism and calcium utilization. Incandescent light bulbs, filtered sunlight (through window glass) and plant lights are not acceptable alternatives.
Diet
As with most captive reptiles, most medical conditions for which
box turtles are presented to veterinarians result from malnutrition,
either directly or indirectly. As stated above, box turtles are
omnivorous. They will eat whole animals, such as meal worms, snails,
slugs, earthworms and other invertebrates that may live in the
humus and leaf litter in which box turtles normally hunt for food
in their natural habitat. Box turtles also readily accept fruits,
berries and certain vegetables.
Box turtles can be successfully raised by feeding a diet of
whole animal substitutes, such as Reptile-Fare (Reliable Protein
Products, Los Angeles, CA 90048), low-fat, soft dog food (Cycle
4, Gaines Foods, St Anne, IL 60964), or semi-moist dog food (Gainesburgers,
Gaines Foods, St Anne, IL 60964). Fruit (berries of all types,
bananas, pears, peaches, papayas, guavas), vegetables (chopped,
thawed, frozen mixed vegetables, squash, yams) and edible mushrooms
should be provided as well. The fruits and vegetables provide
additional vitamins, minerals and moisture, as well as necessary
roughage. Many hobbyists believe a ratio of 1/2 to 2/3 whole animals
and/or whole animal substitutes to 1/3 to 1/2 fruit and vegetable
matter offers the best results. Fruit-loving box turtles can be
persuaded to eat a wider variety of foods by mixing soft dog food
with pureed or chopped fruit. Other foods can be judiciously added
to the aforementioned items, including cottage cheese, chopped
hard-boiled or scrambled egg, grated cheese and yogurt.
A completely natural diet (one that a wild box turtle would select for itself) can never be exactly duplicated under conditions of captivity. For this reason, and because the exact nutritional requirements of box turtles are unknown, vitamin-mineral supplementation is advised. Powdered supplements intended for reptiles (Reptical and Vita-Life, Terra-Fauna Products, Mountain View, CA 94042; Reptovite, Verners Pet Products, Long Beach, CA 90807) should be sprinkled each day over food moist enough to ensure adherence of the product. We prefer the powdered vitamin-mineral-amino acid supplement, Nekton-Rep (Nekton Products, W. Germany) and believe it to be superior to the similar products listed above.
Environmental Temperature and Frequency of Feeding
Box turtles can be fed daily, though many hobbyists feed them
every other day or 2-3 times weekly. They will not eat at low
environmental temperatures and likewise cannot digest food well
at low temperatures. Consistently warm environmental temperatures
must be maintained, especially at night, for box turtles kept
in colder climates, or for those not allowed to hibernate.
Hibernation
Any box turtle that has recently been ill should not be allowed
to hibernate. Hibernation results in a general decrease in overall
resistance of the turtle. Consequently, latent or chronic illness
in a hibernating turtle can then create more serious and even
life-threatening disease. Hibernation is not necessary for the
health and well-being of box turtles. Unlike regular sleep, hibernation
involves a more prolonged period of inactivity, accompanied by
a substantial decrease in metabolic activity, both of which enable
the animal to survive periods during which environmental conditions
are relatively harsh.
Newly acquired box turtles should not be allowed to hibernate until their health status has been accurately determined. Hatchling box turtles should not be allowed to hibernate until after their third year of life. Box turtles can be kept from hibernating by maintaining their winter environmental temperature 5-10 degrees higher than their summer temperature. Under these conditions, box turtles usually appear sluggish. If they refuse to eat, periodic forced-feedings are recommended.
Hibernating Indoors
Box turtles can be placed in a protected box (wooden or cardboard)
partially filled with clean dirt (potting soil is recommended).
The soil should be kept slightly damp. A layer of dead leaves
or crumpled newspaper should cover the dirt. A shallow dish of
water should also be provided. The box can be placed in a cool
area (such as a garage) and should be maintained rodent-free.
The hibernating turtle should be checked periodically. During
warm spells, the turtle may temporarily come out of hibernation;
food should be offered at these times.
Hibernating Outdoors
The hibernation period begins with inappetence in October or November
in southern California and ends in March or April, depending on
environmental conditions in the spring. Box turtles may be allowed
to hibernate in the corner of a dog house or other similar shelter
if they are allowed to burrow under some loose cover. Dead leaves
or crumpled newspapers can be provided for this purpose. An alternative
arrangement involves providing a protected area with loose dirt
and a covering layer of dead leaves or dried lawn clippings that
cannot be flooded by winter rains.
Box turtles may emerge during warm spells, during which time they may feed. Food should be provided at these times as well as a shallow dish of water for soaking, if the turtle chooses to do so. Box turtles hibernating outdoors should be protected from flies, ants and predatory marauders, such as dogs, cats, rats, skunks and opossums.
Diseases and Medical Problems
Most box turtles sold as pets in the United States have been captured
by turtle hunters in their wild habitats. Captured turtles are
then congregated in boxes and later sold to pet stores. Those
caring for the newly captive turtles attempt to feed them but
have little knowledge of individual needs. The turtles are often
confused and intent on escape and may not eat or drink for weeks
or even months. The stress of capture, combined with the circumstances
of crowding and malnourishment, often result in disease and swift
disease transmission.
A recently captured turtle purchased in the spring is much more likely to be healthy than one sold much later in the year or during the winter. The latter specimens are much more likely to be seriously ill.
Typical Signs of Illness
A sick box turtle may not eat and may lose weight. Swollen and/or
runny eyes, nasal discharge, swollen ears, lumps or swellings,
wounds to the shell, increased water consumption, diarrhea, extreme
lethargy, weakness and coma are other signs of illness. Subtle
changes in behavior and the turtle's routine often signal the
onset of illness. It is at this stage in the course of an illness
that a box turtle should be presented to a veterinarian. A thorough
physical exam and a laboratory work-up (blood and/or bacteriology
tests) can be performed to diagnose and properly treat the problem.
Conditions Requiring Veterinary Attention
Disease Resulting from Malnourishment and Vitamin Deficiencies
Most diseases afflicting captive box turtles are, at least in
part, the result of malnutrition. Box turtles that do not receive
all of the nutrients vital to sustain optimum health do not remain
healthy, and become ill from a variety of causes. Hatchlings are
the most prone to disease resulting from dietary deficiencies
because their nutritional requirements exceed those of adult turtles
and because their rate of growth is so rapid. Hatchling turtles
often exhibit soft shells, associated with protein and mineral
deficiencies, and swollen eyes, which accompany vitamin A deficiency.
Adult box turtles, by contrast, are unlikely to exhibit soft shell
problems but may show signs of anemia, weight loss, mouth rot,
internal infection, or abscessation with chronic malnourishment.
Respiratory Disease
Respiratory disease is common in box turtles. Epidemics may occur
in populations of wild box turtles, characterized by runny noses
and pneumonia. It may be bacterial or viral and can be highly
contagious. The Ornate Box Turtle (Terrapene ornata ornata) seems
to be especially sensitive to respiratory disease in captivity,
and the respiratory signs seem to be particularly devastating
in this species.
Ear Abscesses
A common sequel to an upper respiratory infection in a box turtle
is abscessation of the ears. A swelling appears on one or both
sides of the head, beneath the external ear openings. Cheese-like
pus can usually be removed by the veterinarian, and antibiotic
therapy by injection is usually rewarding.
Abscesses (Other than Ear)
Bacterial abscesses are common from puncture wounds, bite wounds
and other injuries. Injectable antibiotics must be used under
these circumstances to prevent formation of internal abscesses
or septicemia (blood poisoning).
Internal Infections
A wide variety of bacterial infections can occur. Often, multiple
organ systems are involved. Liver and/or kidney disease is common
because of the septic nature of turtle diseases and the filtering
action of these 2 organs. Chronic hepatitis and chronic kidney
disease (the latter resulting in gout from elevations of uric
acid in the blood) are routinely seen. Infections of the heart
are also common. Blood tests are useful for diagnosis of these
and other problems.<MI>
Organ Failure
Older box turtles are subject to organ failure, most often resulting
from chronic infection or other long-standing disease involving
one or more organs. Diseases that usually accompany advancing
age in other animals also affect elderly box turtles (for example,
arteriosclerosis). Blood chemistry analysis is necessary to diagnose
these cases.
Bot Fly Infestation
Box turtles are commonly subject to the ravages of migrating "bot
fly" larvae. These large parasites are different from the
much smaller maggots (larvae of other flies). The adult flies
deposit their eggs on the skin and/or mucous membranes and the
newly hatched larvae, penetrate into the body and form large,
visible lumps where they come to rest, resembling abscesses. These
grubs may cause substantial tissue damage and mechanical interference
for the turtle. Some turtles die as a result of this infestation.
Maggot Infestation
"Fly strike"and maggot infestations are extremely common,
especially among wounded or sick box turtles. These turtles are
virtually defenseless and flies can easily take advantage of their
weakened condition. Traumatized or diseased box turtles should
be kept indoors or within a screened enclosure during their convalescence.
Shell Disorders
Shell rot occurs when either the upper shell (carapace), lower
shell (plastron) or both develop erosions. This condition usually
results from injury or chronic exposure to a filthy environmental.
Malnutrition and infection are frequent predisposing factors.
Serious injuries to the shell are often inflicted by dogs, lawn mowers and automobiles.
Overgrown Upper Jaw
The upper jaw of some captive box turtles may occasionally overgrow.
Abnormal wear patterns resulting from prior injury or a steady
diet of soft food may be involved. Periodic trimming of the upper
mandible by an experienced veterinarian or technician is necessary
in these cases.
Foreign Body Ingestion
The intestinal impactions occasionally seen in desert tortoises
are rarely a problem in box turtles. However, eating snail shells
occasionally causes intestinal tract damage in box turtles. Certain
individuals seem to be plagued by this problem and should not
be fed whole snails. Most box turtles can safely eat snails and
snail shells.
Blood Parasites
Various blood parasites have been found in box turtles. Blood
parasites can overwhelm an already weakened and/or sick turtle
and should be treated with the appropriate medication. A blood
test is necessary to detect these parasites.
Intestinal Parasites
A variety of roundworm and strongyle-type worms can parasitize
captive box turtles. Reinfection results when pet turtles are
permitted to feed in an environment in which feces are allowed
to accumulate and contaminate food. Numerous deaths of box turtles
occur every year from intestinal rupture and peritonitis resulting
from heavy intestinal parasitism.
Few box turtles are parasite-free; therefore, yearly fecal exams and/or routine dewormings are recommended. Strict attention to hygiene, frequent soil changes and periodic rotation of habitats to reduce exposure to these parasites are also recommended.
Intestinal Protozoa
These one-celled parasites can cause disease and are occasionally
found in captive box turtles. Diagnosis of Giardia and Trichomonas
infections requires direct microscopic examination of the feces
by an experienced laboratory technician or veterinarian. The feces
must first be placed in a preservative solution and then a special
staining procedure is used to prepare them for examination.
Reproductive Problems
Egg-binding is a fairly common problem among female box turtles.
This condition results when a pregnant female cannot pass an egg
by herself. She typically strains excessively against the obstruction.
The egg may be oversized or there may be metabolic or other reasons
for her inability to pass the egg without assistance. Radiographs
(x-rays) are usually made to confirm that the female is, in fact,
fertile with eggs. Then, hormone injections and sometimes aspiration
of the egg's contents are necessary to expel the stubborn egg.
Several other conditions are seen in reproductively active female box turtles. Metritis (infection of the uterus) and egg-yolk peritonitis (ruptured egg-yolk or yolks within the body cavity) are the most common.
Erections in Males
During the mating season, male box turtles periodically protrude
and rhythmically fan their penis. This copulatory organ is flower-shaped
and purple, and may appear unusual or abnormal to those unfamiliar
with box turtles. It is most often mistaken for a prolapsed organ
and may be treated as such by those unfamiliar with box turtle
anatomy and mating habits.
Prolapses
Prolapses of the uterus, intestine, urinary bladder or penis (paraphimosis)
may occur. The last condition occurs if the engorged penis cannot
be returned inside the body cavity due to small vent size or previous
trauma to the enlarged organ. An anesthetic and skillful manipulation
by an experienced reptile veterinarian are usually necessary to
replace a prolapsed organ. Clumsy attempts by novices may permanently
damage the involved organs.
Eye Disorders
Various disorders involving the eyes of box turtles are noted
from time to time. These include cataracts, corneal ulcers, puncture
wounds and other traumatic injuries, infections, maggot infestation,
conjunctivitis and dry eye (keratitis sicca).
Further Information About Box Turtles
A wealth of information may be obtained by joining one or more
of the turtle and tortoise clubs. Club newsletters provide information
on box turtle care and other related matters.
Clubs and Organizations
Below are the names and addresses of clubs and organizations dedicated
to box turtle care.
American Federation of Herpetoculturists
P.O. Box 1131
Lakeside, CA 92040
(A.F.H. Publication:The Vivarium)
Arizona Herpetological Association
1433 W. Huntington Dr
Tempe, AZ 85282
California Turtle and Tortoise Club
Westchester Chapter
P.O. Box 90252
Los Angeles, CA 90009
Orange County Chapter
P.O. Box 11124
Santa Ana, CA 92711
Foothill Chapter
P.O. Box 194
Montrose, CA 91020
San Bernardino Chapter
P.O. Box 2371
San Bernardino, CA 92405
Valley Chapter
P.O. Box 44152
Panorama City, CA 91402
Officials of the California Turtle and Tortoise Club
Walter Allen (714) 962-0612
Martha Young-Wheeler (213) 408-2583
Cathy Debs (213) 257-0057
David Kavanaugh (213) 433-2112
Chicago Herpetological Society
2001 North Clark St
Chicago, IL 60614
San Diego Turtle and Tortoise Society
13963 Lyons Valley Rd
Jamul, CA 92035-9607
Virn Kirchman, Editor of newsletter
(Excellent care sheets available)
Society for the Study of Amphibians and Reptiles (SSAR)
Douglas H. Taylor, Publications Secretary
Dept. of Zoology
Miami University
Oxford, OH 45056
Southwestern Herpetologist's Society
Inland Empire Branch
San Bernardino County Museum
2024 Orange Tree Lane
Redlands, CA 92373
T.E.A.M. (Tortoise Education and Adoption Media)
3245 Military Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90034
Roy Lewis, Publisher
(An excellent scientific newsletter for the layman)